Tag: green

Easily Grow Cannabis at Home: Wiring your Greenhouse

Hello and welcome back to the GreenBox GrownIntro Series to Growing Cannabis at Home.

  In this video I explain the best way to setup your greenhouse so it uses as little electricity as possible and saves you a ton of money onyour electric bill!  I also show you how to set up your power cordsso you don’t overload any of the circuits in your house or blow any fuses.

 Here is a good shot of the power cords coming out of my greenhouse and running to the housewhere they are plugged in.

  I have to mostly use the outlets inside myhouse because we only have a couple outside.

 Here we are in the greenhouse and you can see I have 2 LED grow lights as well as 2fans and a heater towards the back.

  It is always a good Idea to hang the connectionsof your power cords so they are off the ground.

  This prevents them from getting wet, whichcould cause them to short.

  Here are the fans we have on each side andthen the heater is down there.

   This greenhouse actually uses a minimal amount of electricity because we are runningLED lights, which are only on for a couple of hours per day and use a fraction of thepower most grow lights require.

  The heater is definitely the largest sourceof power consumption, which is why I always run mine on a separate circuit from everythingelse.

  The fans in this grow room are also very powerefficient and barley use any electricity.

 This is a shot of the greenhouse from my balcony out back and here are the power cords runningup to my house and inside.

  I have a ton of other cords up here, whichare coming from my other greenhouses.

  Since I have a decent amount of equipmentto power, it is especially important I spread the cords out through out the house and don’tload them all up on one circuit.

  If you do that you can easily blow a fuseor mess up the electrical wiring in your house.

 Here we are at one of the outlets I am using inside.

  This power cord is hooked up to the heaterand 2 fans in my greenhouse down below which is plenty for this one circuit.

 The best way to decide on how many appliances you can hook up to each circuit is based onthe total amount of amps they draw.

  Each circuit in the average house can hold15 amps of total pull, so once you’ve reached that limit you should move on to the nextcircuit.

  It’s also a good idea to stay a little belowthat limit of 15 amps so nothing overheats.

  On average a fan will draw an amp or 2, andthe LEDS I am using pull 3 amps each.

 As you probably already know, the more amps you are using to power your grow, the higheryour electricity bill will be each month.

  That is why I always buy energy efficientproducts, which use a fraction of the electricity, and will cut your monthly power usage in halfor even more.

   Before I had energy efficient fans and equipment,my electricity bill had almost doubled from my cannabis grow.

  But once I switched over, it was just slightlyabove what I was paying before I started growing.

   You can always check the box the product came in to see what the amp rating is.

  Heaters are what draw the most power, andthe average 1200-watt heater pulls around 12.

5 amps.

  That’s why I recommend having a heater onit’s own circuit with maybe 1 or 2 fans on it.

   Now that you have a good grasp on how to properlypower your growing appliances, you are ready to move on to the next intro to growing video.

     That is all I have for now, but as alwaysthank you for watching and happy growing.

Source: Youtube

Greenhouse Lighting: Bright Lights, Big Produce

[Light, soft electronic music fades in.

] Narrator: Canadian winters can be long and dark.

This lack of year-round natural light impedes greenhouse production… …during the winter months.

As a result greenhouse growers need to use supplementary lighting to provide the high quality produce….

That consumers want year-round.

But not all light is created equal… …and crops develop and grow differently when they are supplied with alternative light sources.

Greenhouses currently use High Pressure Sodium, or HPS lights.

They have a low capital cost, but you can’t adjust the quality of the light.

And they can get very hot – up to 300 degrees.

Which means that plants could burn if the lights are too close.

Light Emitting Diodes, or LED lights, are a new state-of-the-art technology.

They provide higher quality light with customizable intensity, direction, and colour settings.

They also have a lower surface temperature than HPS lights… …so they can be used right inside the crop canopy.

Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada scientists, Dr.

Xiuming Hao.

From the Harrow Research and Development Centre… …and Dr.

Rong Cao from the Guelph Research and Development Centre.

Are busy a new hybrid lighting system that uses… …HPS lights above the crop canopy… …and LED lighting inside the crop canopy.

Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada is one of the leading organizations… …in the world in the study of vertical lighting distribution for greenhouses.

The results show that this new system can improve… …the yield and nutritional value of greenhouse crops.

They’ve found that by using an optimized hybrid lighting system… …that can deliver proper spectrums of light at different heights… …mini-cucumber plants yield twice as many vegetables as they would in a traditional greenhouse.

Twenty times more than they would in the field! They’re also studying the effect of different coloured LED lights… …on the production of antioxidants in greenhouse vegetables.

Blue lights increase polyphenols that help plants to protect themselves from insects and disease.

Red lights, on the other hand, increase carotenoids and are very good for plant growth and leaf health.

The results of these studies may allow Canada’s greenhouse growers to conquer Canadian winters.

And move to full 12-month production cycles.

This will allow them to produce fresh vegetables throughout the winter months… …meeting consumer demands for high quality, local produce year round.

It will also allow them to be more competitive because they will be able to edge out… …imports during the winter months and will be able to expand their presence on the international market.

With the help of our Canadian agricultural scientists… …the sun will never stop shining on Canadian greenhouse growers.

And in the right light, at the right time, everything is extraordinary.

[Light, soft electronic music fades out.


Source: Youtube

City Of Elmhurst Sees Red Over Family’s Greenhouse

























Source: Youtube

Relocating The DIY Ultimate Polytunnel / Greenhouse Part 1

So in February 2016 I decided to move my ultimatepolytunnel my 32ft by 14 ft polytunnel that I built a few years ago from the old plotsto the new plots.

I did make a video series on that, however,It never got published and the reason for that was because When I recorded it therewas a lot of bad weather and I was using a microphone and I didn't realise at the timethat the microphone was only working intermittently.

When it came to me editing that footage someof the sound quality wasn't really up to scratch and I decided that I wasn't going to releasethat footage.

However, there was a sponsor for that video series which was supposed tohave been three episodes and that sponsor gave me the plastic in which to do the polytunnel,so I have been in a bit of dismay really about it all because I wanted to be able to fulfillmy obligation to the company that gave me the plastic firstly and secondly it was aseries that I wanted to be able to give to you.

So I have really sort of struggled withwhether to put this footage up.

However, over the last 9 or 10 months I have had hundredsand I mean hundreds of people emailing me and messaging me saying look I understandwhat your saying, the footage might not be great but I would still really like to seeit.

So that's what these next couple of episodes are going to be about guys, It is the footageI've edited it the best I can where the footage is bad I've put the cc in for you guys soif for any reason you can't hear what I am saying or anything like that, you'll be ableto read it if you decide to all you got to do is click the cc button below.

So without any further ado guys let's geton with the footage.

This is February 2016 dismantle and move to the new premises build.

Anyway I will see you in a minute So as you can see behind me guys we've gotour 32ft by 14ft polytunnel.

Now it's a home made structure utilising scaffolding polesand timber.

We do have a series on it but what we are going to do over the next threeepisodes is take down this tunnel and we are going to move it and rebuild it at the site.

I got my brother helping me because we'vealready taken out some of the internals out of it.

But it's the end of February now, Ireally need this tunnel up and going at the new place.

I purposely haven't planted anythingbecause of that.

Now I would like to tell you, that the nextthree episodes as far as this tunnel is concerned are going to be sponsored by First Tunnelsbecause they have very kindly donated the new plastic that we need for this, So you'regonna see their link to their site there.

Now First Tunnels have a superb range of polytunnelsnot like this obviously, eventhough they can provide you with the covers.

but they gotproper polytunnels with you know the hoop structure and everything else and they'vegot water collection systems and all sorts of stuff.

If you look at these sorts of polytunnelsthat people have made, or the cheaper £150 tunnels you know half of them are on the floorwith the weather we have had this year.

So It really is worth getting yourself over toFirstTunnels If you're thinking of buying a polytunnel and investing in just that littlebit more money and benefitting from something that's gonna be there and is gonna last youfor quite a few years.

So once Dismantling the polytunnel As youknow these posts were down a fair way, a couple of feet.

Some of them are down three feet,some of them are down four feet.

they are down into a lot of soil, So we had to devisea way to get them out of the ground, now I am not sure how far down this one was, butI think it was only about three feet two and a half three feet.

but it's wedged right inthere.

So, today we are just gonna show you a quick way of pulling these that we cameup with and we are gonna put a scaffolding clamp around the pole like this we are justgonna tighten it up right.

ok, so the next step we need a chain which we just gonna feedunder this one here its locked together so all I need to do is do that.

In fact, what I'm gonna do I'm gonna shrinkthat chain down a bit, and I think we are gonna go there and I am gonna make a smallerloop and I'll put a different lock on it there you go.

right, so we've got a smaller loopthere guys ok?.

alright, we just gonna hook that loop underneath the other part of thescaffolding chain and now we need our third part which is our third part which is thisguys.

I put a piece of timber on the floor just to take a bit of weight of the soil andall we need to do is put this jack there and literally jack it up.

Now this Jack comes off a landrover so allI am gonna do is just get it up to the height at the moment we are not far from it hookthe chain around, Here we go, right, so all we need to do now is hold it back with ourfoot there and just jack the post out.

Well, that's good that lock was undone soI am gonna keep going up until I hit the other lock, There we go.

I just keep jacking itThere we are.

and it's the easiest way I know of getting a post out of the ground.

There we are, we are free now, so I can literally move that and send this backdown.

and nowI can just lift it out of the ground.

There you go, guys, so I don't know if you can quitemake this out no, let me alter the camera lens.

Ok guys, so too here this was how far down this post went into the ground we got onetwo at least three feet on this one, so that's why we couldn't get them out, we got one moreto do and then the polytunnel is down.

All the parts are on the new plot, and wherewe are standing is where it is going to go.

Now the polytunnel itself is the actual landitself isn't quite flat, so what we need to do is we need to build a line to a level thatwe can work from, ok? and then we will end up shovelling some of this soil away.

To getit level, we may raise the front yet I am not sure about that.

but essentially all theparts we need are around the green shed there the door is leaning against the shed as youcan see.

there is timber all along here and timber on the other side of the shed timberhere.

so the first port of call for this now to get this back together is to get these18 posts in the front and the rear walls, and then we can start with the rest of thestructure.

so, I will come to you when I have got some of the posts set, because we wannakeep this video quite a short series, so once I have got some of the posts set I will comeback to you and explain what we are doing next.

So as you can see here now, we just startedgetting in the posts, we have got the front up.

and that's all nice and level and thedoor will go on there shortly.

now, here we basically have to put the posts in we gota datum line across the bottom which is the bottom rail it is not screwed in at the moment,as we are having to move it to dig the posts in the right area and we have to fit the windows.

This would be quite easy if I had just come here, when we originally built it we justput a post in then we built the windows to fit where the posts were.

but now obviouslyall the window frames are already pre-built so we have to get the posts in the exact rightplace, and then it has to be exactly level and plumb so that it all works.

You will see in a second some of the postsare quite long and we are hitting bedrock so we are having to cut this much of someof the posts.

It's another pain in the backside but it will allow us, it's not an issue herebecause we are quite sheltered.

we have got all of these buildings along here we havegot a big tree and stuff behind us with gardens and houses and stuff like that.

and then wegot all that netted area and just in front of us here will be our shed.

so, and the reasonwe can do that is because the sun rises over here and comes around the back of us, so itdoesn't ever come through the front of the tunnel so the tunnel will have light prettymuch all day.

even if the shed is in front of it.

So, what we need to do is literallyI have numbered all of these so I know exactly where they go.

Put the next post in screwit and carry on right the way up until we have got it all in and then we will put theback wall and we will do the exact same thing on the other side.

So, it's a bit of towingand froing and like I said, I am having to redig some of the holes because although Imeasured them correctly in the first place, they are not quite lining up with the windowsand things like that, so, the chamfers are different so we have to do that and then weare having to cut down some of the posts as well because they are just way to long.

Soanyway, I will come back to you now when we get some more of this wall up, but in fact,I will leave you running for a little bit for one of these, and then you can see exactlywhat we need to do.

So, what we do here now, I just got to drivethese through, I am sorry if the sun is in your eyes.

I am not sure how dark it's goingto make the video.

So the idea now Is just to drive this through.

There is number one.

And if you notice, It's a bit of a post because obviously, I need to try to get everythingperfectly aligned and I am not at the moment.

But we will get there.

Because I'm There weare looking.

Because I'm working off other things.

and later on, I am just gonna pullit back so I got the tip sticking through.

Later on, we will then bury these posts, butI just wanna make sure they are all level first.

And I'm just lining it up where theyneed to be.

Its a bit awkward ok I can leave that go now a minute and drive this one home.

So, That's another post done.

and, we willgo along now to the next one.

Now, for those who haven't seen this tunnel before theseare pull out windows, now at the moment they are obviously just netted.

But there is windowsthat go in and I don't think I am going to recover them when I recover the polytunnelbecause they are ok.

These windows will go in and then it can stop the wind.

The greatthing about doing it this way is the fact that we have total control over the humidityover the temperature and everything within the polytunnel.

One thing you will find witha lot of polytunnels is that they are very under ventilated and in the summer temperaturesget so high things get scorched and before you know it your running shading over things.

And This helps us to prevent all of that as we control the temperature as we want.

Ifwe want to reduce it a little bit we can remove one window, and in the height of summer allthe windows are out.

and it gets a really good cross ventilation.

Right, let's crackon.

Source: Youtube

Closed Environment Agriculture Greenhouse Tour

Welcome to the ClosedEnvironment AgricultureGreenhouse here we do aquaponics andhydroponics for production of both fish,in this case Tilapia and a variety of lettuces andplants that will be sent to the school's diningprogram at Seneca.

Aquaponics is simply the culture of fish and plants together hydroponics is simply the raising of plants in aquatic media, okay, so it has everything to do with wheredid the water come from This entire system is arecirculating system so the water will enter theTilapia tanks which are the fish that we currently raise, it's a warm water species of cichlid and once it leaves the tank it'sgoing to go behind underground here, and into thesefiltration systems since we're recirculating orreusing the water water quality is key.

So, what we're trying to do when we send it through these different filter systems is remove any uneaten food andany waste of any kind.

So the major solids are caughtby several screens once it leaves this sump area it's going to go into what lookslike pool filters again that's to capture fineparticulate solids the real key, and the real driver of this whole system is that blue filter right there that's where we do ourbiological filtration so that is taking out any toxicammonia metabolites.

The bacteria that colonize a bunch of little plastic balls inside this filter system help reduce that molecule to itsnon-toxic form.

Then the water splits it goes back to the fish and into the plants.

So the nitrate that's alreadypresent in the water serves as a fertilizer.

This is a raft system so theplants are directly on top of the water the roots growing directly downinto the water, okay, and the nitrate that theyreceive from the fish waste, the broken down fish waste serves as that fertilizer to help with growth.

As they grow we're pushing the rafts down as they get bigger and bigger,we'll harvest at the end, and Aquaculture students and Horticulture students come together in this space and they both learn about the animal culture side, so what does it take to keep the fish alive and happy and what nutrients, what nutrition, and what life requirements have to be balanced with plants, okay.

plants like their water a littlemore acidic than fish do and that has to do with nutrientavailability so we have to add some nutrientsto this system and we have to adjust the pH inthis system versus what we have with the fish.

So it's a little more complex to get the whole system functioning as a whole unit, okay.

Couple other things that we do in here we have an irrigation bed that we raise tomatoes in the tomatoes are going to grow up, upwards of nine to ten feet and then we start training theirvines back down so we have heirloom varieties oftomatoes that are going in today with Horticulture students thatare doing most of the planting.

We have nutrient film technique,okay, all we're doing is running wateracross the root system through a PVC pipe, okay the reason I like this system is because we can mirror-image two different water sources so this water source is actuallyaquaponic water, water that came from the fish and is flowing and recirculating through, and this system is hydroponic so you have to do a little bitmore addition on the hydroponic side than youdo on the aquaponic side so we have pH measurements thatare happening live we have temperature measurements that are happening both atmospherically and we've started to add temp loggers to our water reservoirs and we have a computer system that will notify us if there is an emergency and the third thing that wehave is a motorized and computerizedshade cloth, okay.

It uses a light meterand we tell it if you have too much light,basically, to close and if there's not enoughlight to close as well because we want to keep the heatinsulating in so a little bit of automation that we are doing as faras training our students on systems that they would already have in a large-scale production greenhouse.

With this greenhouse you're notgoing to see as much production as you would on theindustrial side of aquaponics and hydroponicsgrowth in large facilities that are producing many differenttypes of plants the reason is this is amodel for education, okay, so we're trying to balance ourstudents' educational experience with the actual productionthat we do.

So one of the things that we end up doing here quite a bit are student projects.

The projects that we'll doinclude anything from having students model what would happen if there was a nutrient deficiency in the water to different types of lights that the industry might use and how does that affect plant growth.

So this is a research space aswell as a production space.

This is particular tray is tostart all of our seedlings.

We start them in a materialcalled rock wool it holds moisture very well and this media is what we're going to start the actual seeds in they'll grow up to seedlings, then we'll transplant them into whatever system they're going in to.

The nutrient filmtechnique system, or, the raft system.

In agriculture any time thatyou can control the outcome you're at less mercyof the elements that's the major thing.

We want to be able to control production cycles so here we can control light, we can control temperature, we can control the media in which they're growing in.

Now the nice thing about this inarea like Morrisville where we do not have necessarily, the year-round access to a variety of different fruits and vegetables,we can give our students fresh fruit and vegetables that we produce on campus all year round so these lettuces will dodifferent cycles of harvesting but generally we're going toharvest six to eight weeks so that's all year long we can provide fresh fruits and vegetables to our students.

Source: Youtube

how to increase greenhouse energy efficiency – old greenhouse renovation

My name is Chris Powell from good harvestfarm, Strasburg, Pennsylvania.

And we’re here today to look at our energyefficiency savings and upgrades.

We had replaced an older 80 years old structurewith a new up to date 4000 square foot structure.

And it has glass roof, energy curtain, radiantheat in the floor.

And I went to propane fired boilers with hotwater and fen tube.

We also upgraded to computer controls.

We’re finding also that our plant qualityis much better because our heat is constant.

The heat is where we needed when we needed.

We’re about six or eight months thank tothe new structure and new heating system.

And seen better results than we were eventold we’re going to get.

Probably, minimum 40% savings versus our oldsystem.

Well over 20000 dollars savings per year.

So far so good.

We’re really glad we did it.

Big investment but see quick payback withit.

Source: Youtube

How To Build A Greenhouse – D.I.Y. At Bunnings

A greenhouse doesn't have to be bucketloadsof cash.

We're gonna make a simple one that you canmove around, and it's gonna have plenty of room in it for all your plants.

We're gonna take your garden area from this.


The good thing about a greenhouse is it cankeep you gardening all year around.

I'm gonna show you how to make a real easyone today.

These are all the tools and equipment thatwe're gonna need to build our greenhouse.

Just a few frames, a little bit of plastic.

If you're a keen gardener, you're gonna wantone of these.

I've got all of my timber pre-cut at Bunnings,and I've sectioned off and labeled all of my different components to make the buildeasy.

To make the base, get the hardwood sleepers,pre-drill and screw together with bugle screws.

To make the base for the floor, we are nowgonna add our timber, down to the bottom, leaving it flush on the floor.

That way you're gonna get a nice clean fit.

Once you have your framing, you can add joistsfor extra support.

This is going to provide the base for theflooring.

Now we have our sub-floor installed.

It's now time to flip it over and put on thecasters.

Use bugle screws.

There's no need to pre-drill, but make sureyou put the wheels with the stoppers on opposing corners.

To lay your floor, put your timber in ribside down, and layer that thirty-odd spacing to still allow for draining.

To make your frame, make the outer frame first,using the framing gun.

I know how big I want my door, so now I justhave to measure and put in my stud work.

Make sure you put in the second brace to allowfor the hinges.

So, that's our front frame made.

Now, let's go and make the door.

Make sure your noggins are flush to the frontof the door to attach your hinges.

To build this side, make a frame and put astud in the middle.

Repeat the process for the other two frames.

Once you've built your framework, it's timeto put the plastic on.

Wrap your frames in plastic, and fix it off.

Make sure you're wearing gloves, and makesure you attach the plastic to the inside of the frame so it looks nice from the outside.

So now we have all of our sides and our frontwrapped.

It's now time to attach the hinges.

Screw the hinges down to the side joists,and attach your pad bolt to the front.

Now the frame's almost finished.

Attach the frame to the base using bugle screws.

It's a little bit tricky, so you might needan extra pair of hands.

To affix the battens to your roof, arrangethem in descending sizes, so you get run-off on the back.

Transfer your measurements from your greenhouseonto some polycarbonate roofing, mark that with a bit of masking tape, and cut to size.

I'm using a metal blade on a medium settingon a jigsaw to allow for a clean cut.

I have measured mine out with a little bitof overhang at the front and at the back to allow rain to fall off.

The last thing we have to do is to attachour roof to our greenhouse.

We're gonna use some roofing screws to dothat.

Attach your screws into the crest of the corrogate.

You only need to do this every second one.

So, there you have it.

A fantastic little greenhouse.

Let's go and find a place for it in the backyard.

So, we have created our own nice, warm environmentfor all of our plants, turning your garden from this.

To this.

Singers: Bunnings Warehouse.

Source: Youtube

The Green House – VLOG #4 Planting

Hi, my name's Joe FletcherI'm the Set & Lighting Designer I'm Gabriella Slade, theCostume Designer for 'The Green House' This week's Production Week It's when the lighting, set, choreography& costumes all come together.

and we sort of 'plant' the creation.

Joe: We really liked the idea of it beingset in a 1950s – 1960s era We developed the idea for quite alinear architectural structure with a wallpaper design that couldhave references to that particular era.

But also translate forGabi with the costumes, to create a sort of camouflageeffect, walking in to the space.

Gabi: In order for the wallpaper patternto be used in the costumes we got bespoke fabrics printed.

I experimented with changing some of thetones of the background colour and the scales of the print, so that each dancer and each characterhas their own individual quality.

But actually, as a whole setof costumes, they appear as one.

There's a lot of repetition inthe piece so it was important that there were a lot of repeatingdetails within the costumes.

There's the use of dividing lines in the set and also inthe costumes, and pleats are used throughout.

It's really important that within'The Green House' the dancers are camouflagedin the environment.

And when they're out,in the blank space.

they can be vibrantand pop!.

Source: Youtube

Greenhouse Growing: on a bench vs on the floor?

Basically there are various differences between growing on a greenhouse bench vs growing on the floor itself.

There are basically 3 things: one is drainage.

On the bench you get good drainage out of the plant material.

When you water the top, the water can run out of the bottom of the container.

On the floor it's tend to be more restricted so crops on the floor tend to stay wetter longer.

Second thing is temperature.

On a bench you can have the air actually go under the bench so it can warm the growing media up.

When it's on the floor, it tends to be colder especially in the winter months the growing media temperatures are colder.

So again you don't get that water usage it's easier to get root disease development.

Third thing that could be an issue with growing on the floor is sometimes you get imperfections in the floor itself, so you can get pockets of water that can wick water back up into the growing media which again adds to thing staying too wet.

Overall I would say that growing on a bench is better because you get better airflow, you can get the temperature warmer right next to the root system and it'll help dry out your growing media.

Source: Youtube

Lifestyle Gardening: Cuttings in the Green House

(mid tempo music) (upbeat music) – Hello again and welcometo Lifestyle Gardening.

I'm Kim Todd and we'vegot another great program for you this afternoon.

Today we'll be looking atgetting you started early with cuttings in the greenhouse.

We'll see more great examplesof western ornamentals, and we'll talk aboutpruning your fruit trees.

To get us started todaywe're going to help you with some tips onmail order plants.

It's really fun to browsethrough the colorful catalogs you get each year, andwe'll help you figure out how to get what youwant to try this season.

(mid tempo music) Good gardeners, bad gardeners,starting out gardeners and plant nerds really loveto get their hands on plants especially ones that mightbe a little bit unusual.

We have lots ofopportunities to do that starting during the dormantseason or in the winter, and of course, buyinglocal is always great, but there's not much tobuy locally right now unless you're goingafter the house plants.

You can, however, useold-fashioned catalogs, the ones that comein the real mail and have colored coversand great pictures, or go online and most ofthose companies of course, have the same catalog online.

A lot of things tokeep in mind however about buying mail order plants.

First off, we alwaystell people to make sure you check the zone, and thatwould be the growing zone in which you live, rememberthat those zones stretch all the way across thecountry, and zone four or five in Nebraska may or maynot be the same zone as it is in Washingtonor on the West Coast.

So you look for thezone first, and then, pick out the plants youlove, take a look at exactly how they're goingto be shipped to you.

This is really important.

People can be disappointedin a mail order plant because they have anexpectation of size that really doesn't match whatthe supplier is going to do.

As an example, you'll seethe words bareroot plant and you'll see a size,12 inches to 18 inches.

Bareroot plants are shippeddifferently mail order than ones that comein a small container.

A good supplier of barerootplants will ship them only during very specifictimes of the year.

They will be very wellpacked, either in peat moss or excelsior orshredded newspaper.

And then typically putin a bag of some sort that will helphold that moisture while they're being shipped.

That doesn't mean, however,they're not going to dry out, especially if you have notchosen a fast shipping method.

So you wanna check on theshipping method as well.

And if it is a plantthat you really want, you've paid a bit of moneyfor it, you wanna make sure that it is not languishingin the back of the truck or in the post office someplace, you may wanna pay the differenceand get that plant shipped a little bit faster.

Then you also wanna look at the sizes of containerthat are available.

Again, it costs alot of money to ship a big ball of soil halfwayacross the country.

Many suppliers of mailorder plants will put a maximum or a minimum onthe number of containers of a certain sizethat they will ship because those are the onesthey can pack in the boxes.

A gallon container of course,will be a lot heavier.

You'll get fewer in the box,but you'll get a bigger plant.

A smaller one, a four inchor even a little cell pack, obviously, you can buymore of them to fit in a different size box, yourplant is also smaller.

What you want to make surethat you do also is look at the information that thatsupplier has given you about the actual shipping dates.

And many times they willhave limits, they'll say they will not shipafter a certain date because it's too hot.

They will not shipbefore a certain date because it's toocold, and if they ship before a certain date,what are you going to do in your own home with plantsthat are either bareroot and sitting in a plasticbag, or plants that really don't wanna stayinside a greenhouse because they're alreadygreen and growing and they're in a container? People will put plantsthat come in in bareroot in their refrigeratorto keep them from breaking dormancyand keep them cool until it's time to plant.

Strawberries are anexample, they come bareroot, they come in a bundle, typicallytied with a rubber band or a twistie, and thenthey forget about them.

And they open thatrefrigerator and here comes strawberries that are mush,the plants themselves, instead of an actual plant.

So again, to summarize,enjoy that shopping.

You can also, with certaincompanies go online and go to an e-commercesite, and perhaps pick out one of something that anursery may not carry.

That might be able tobe shipped directly from that major supplierto a local nursery with your name on it, giveyou the opportunity to get it without that nursery, thatlocal nursery having to buy five, 10, 15 or 20 ofsomething when in fact, they may only beable to sell one.

So have a great timedoing this but again, read that fine print, thisis one of those situations where you wanna know exactlywhat's getting shipped to you when and how.

There's so many cool selections and fun plants totry in these catalogs whether they're paper or online.

Just make sure you're readingall of that fine print so you don't end up wastingyour money or getting plants when you can't handle them.

You know, we've hada lot of fun with our Go! Gardening features thisyear where we've tried to give new gardeners helpwith basic information to get them started.

This week we're going to giveyou tips on taking cuttings and using them tostart new plants.

It's a prettystraightforward process.

Here to tell us more is UNL agronomy horticulturegrad student Josh Reznihek.

– Today we're gonna talkabout herbaceous cuttings, and another stepthat you can take toward getting your garden ready a little bit sooner.

So today we're gonna beusing a coleus variety that we have in front.

We'll start with the containersthat we'll use today.

I have two in front ofme, different types.

We have just yourtypical 606 cell packs.

The other one will be theseed germination tray.

You can either use either or.

If you're nice and neatand organized these plants will come out as plugs thenonce you go into the garden or you can just take'em directly out of the seed germination tray, thatdoesn't have any dividers and go straight to thegarden as well, so, I'll use the 606 tray forthe demonstration today.

In here I have apremade media mix.

It's a combination ofPerlite as well as a seed germination mix.

That's really it for the media, just looking forsomething well drained.

As far as the plant material,we're gonna be using herbaceous plant material today.

There's four differenttypes of cuttings.

You have your herbaceouswhich a lot of your succulent plantgrowth, your softwood, which is new spring growth, and then semi-hardwood andhardwood cuttings that are a lot of tree speciesand stuff like that.

So today we're justgonna be dealing with the herbaceous plant material.

When taking thesecuttings, it's ideal to use a sanitized razorblade for this.

You can use prunersor scissors of sorts, but I try to stay away fromthat 'cause that creates a crushing actionand damages the plant more than a nice, cleanrazor blade cut would do.

So when taking these cuttings,you're gonna be looking for the nodes of the plant.

Everywhere a leaf actual comesout of the plant is a node.

So you're ideallylooking for a minimum of two nodes per cutting.

What's gonna happen isthat's gonna promote your adventitious rootingbelow the soil line, and your adventitious shootgrowth above the soil line.

So a minimum of two nodes.

Ideally two nodesbelow and one above.

The last node that youhave, the rest of the stem, you don't want a huge longpiece sticking off of this.

It's just gonnadesiccate and die back and potentiallycause more problems.

So you wanna get fairlyclose to that last node and cut that off.

To aid in the rooting,adventitious rooting of these plant materials,there's multiple different rooting hormones that youcan use, different products.

Every store's gonna have alittle bit different one.

There's liquid formulationsI'll be using today as well as powderedformulations.

The powdered ones, I justsuggest that you pre-drill the holes before youstick the cuttings.

'Cause if you just use thecutting to stick the hole in it's gonna rub offon the way down.

So, and again, it'sjust a quick dip.

You don't have to let itsoak or anything like that.

And then you're goingto stick that cutting.

And again, pre-drilling,I usually just use the end of a marker, and thenstick that cutting in there, and kind of looselycompact around there.

You'll notice that there'sa lot of leaf material around this cutting.

Now that we've cut allof the root material off of this cutting, it'snot gonna have any way to bring up water or nutrientsfrom the soil.

So we're gonna have toreduce this leaf tissue area with the razor blade, someof this leaf material, and you can remove wholeleaves, half leaves.

It doesn't really matter.

Just a reduction ofthat leaf surface area to reduce the metabolismrate of that cutting.

Once this occurs, you gothrough the whole flat, in this one it'd be 36 cuttings.

It does take a coupleweeks for this to keel off, callous, and then forroot initials to form.

So, you're looking ata minimum of two weeks before you probablystart seeing any form of root initials.

For post-care, you're lookingfor a humid environment.

You can do this byputting those clear domes over the top, but thenafter they've keeled off, you wanna reduce thelight intensity as well since you wanna reducethat metabolism rate.

And as it goes on, youcan increase that light, kinda harden themoff so that way when you put 'emout in the garden, they don't have any issues.

– There are few things betterto gardeners than free plants.

By following these simple tipsyou'll be well on your way to all kinds offun projects to try for this upcominggrowing season.

If you have morequestions about cuttings or plant propagation,check out your favorite online gardeningwebsites or contact your local extension office.

During the winter months,some of your woody ornamentals are dormant and are in needof some simple pruning.

Pruning anything is a littleintimidating to some gardeners, so we're here tooffer some tips.

For this week's LandscapeLesson we'll help you see the difference betweenwhich are floral buds and which are not.

(mid tempo music) Late winter and earlyspring are good times to do a lot of pruning oncertain landscape plants, and this is alsothe time of year when we get questions abouthow to tell the difference between the floralbuds and the vegetative or the foliage buds.

On some shrubs it certainlydoesn't make any difference because we're not growingthem for the flowering.

On others, however, if you don'tknow what you're looking at and you do wanna do the pruningduring the dormant season, you may, in fact be ruiningthe flowering for that season.

So let's take a lookat a couple of them and talk about how youcan see the differences.

Sometimes it's easy,sometimes it's not.

One thing to alwayskeep in mind also is remember whenthose shrubs flower.

If they flower early inthe spring like forsythias or lilacs, they're likely tohave set their flower buds right after floweringthe previous year.

We call that old woodor one year old wood.

And that means that if you'regoing to do any pruning without ruining those flowerbuds, you need to do it after they flower in the summer.

So that's a little bitof a different ball game.

Here's an example, thisis actually one of the flowering cherries, oneof the bush cherries.

And you can see thesebuds right here, those are the floral buds,those are the vegetative buds.

This is one that blooms very,very early in the spring.

Lilacs are a classic,this happens to be the littleleaf lilac, andit's a little bit harder, of course, to seethe flower buds when the buds themselvesare so little.

But if you look reallyclosely, you can see two vegetative budssurrounding a bud that will be a flower bud.

This is another one again,that you don't prune if you don't wantto lose the flowers.

You wait until after it blooms.

Viburnums have often timeswhat we call naked flower buds.

And it's really simple to seewhat those buds look like.

This is a great example ofa flower bud, a floral bud that was set last season,here are the vegetative or the foliage budson either side of it.

So the simple thing here is,if you really need to prune it, and here's another example,you can go ahead and prune this here or prune it right here,you're not going to ruin the floral displayfor this here.

So again, knowing whatyou're looking at, taking some timeto pay attention to where the shrub flowers, alsomakes a really big difference.

If you know that,you can begin to look a little more closely atwhich buds are going to produce flowers and which onesare going to produce foliage.

Good gardeners understand thevalue of what, when, and where to make those pruning cuts.

It can be confusing at times,but if you know your plants, you'll get the hangof it in no time.

You know, Nebraska has anumber of areas in the state where specificornamentals thrive.

The different climate andenvironmental conditions means some home landscapesare going to look very different as yougo from north to south and east to west.

Last week we talked aboutsome western ornamentals with Amy Seiler from theNebraska Forest Service and now Amy returnsto tell us more.

(mid tempo music) We learned so much from AmySeiler on our last segment about western Nebraskaplants that we decided to have her back,give her another shot at talking about all thebeautiful things she loved.

So Amy, tell us whatyou brought today, and tell us why you cangrow it and we can't and maybe what some ofthe alternatives are west versus east.

– OK, sounds great.

Well I brought some reallyunique plants today.

And the main thing abouta lot of these plants is that they would prefervery limited water.

So they're idealplants for central and western Nebraska.

The other thing that'sunique about these plants is that they would preferto be in a higher pH soil.

– Wow.

– So that is, we're always looking forplants that will grow in a higher pH soil, andwhat we have in front of us are some really good ones.

The first thing that Iwould like to show you, this is apache plume, and this is asemi-evergreen shrub.

And it blooms a whiteflower, but then it has this unbelievable pink flower, it just looks like this silky, wispy, notflower, seed head, excuse me.

And it looks incredible all summer long.

And so you have all thisgreat texture and interest, and it looks incrediblein a dry landscape where sometimes you can lack a little bit of flower interest.

Great plant, three tofive feet tall maybe.

It'll be shorter ifit gets less water.

So that's a good onefor people to try.

– We have tried that in theeast with a little success if it's dry enough, andprobably our high-humidity and our lower pH is gonnalimit its life a little bit.

– It would not enjoythat very much.

It really wants to be neglected.

And I will just forewarn people,when they first plant it, the bloom is not thatimpressive, it's the seed head, is why you plant this plant.

The seed head willtake your breath away.

– Perfect, all right, whatelse did you bring for us? – OK, I broughtanother fun plant.

And what I have infront of me right now, this is called wavy leaf oak.

It is an actual oak, and it is native tosouthwest Colorado, New Mexico, and it isan incredible plant.

It's a small treeor a large shrub.

You can prune it up tohave a multi-stemmed trunk.

And it is incrediblydrought tolerant.

Holds its foliage, it's kindof a silvery foliage color, but Kim, as you touch it, it's spiny.

– (Laughing) I thoughtit was a holly.

And I thought holy cow,she has brought a holly with no green leftin the leaves.

I've never, everseen that plant.

– I've used that in severallandscapes, and it gives great winter interest, andsomething to talk about in the summer for sure.

– Perfect, all right.

You also have another oak Ithink, if I'm not mistaken.

On that one (laughing)- You are correct.

This is just a scruboak or Gambel oak and this is a plant that we reallylike to use in the west.

It's much smaller thanyour oaks back east but I like this plant becauseit will hold its foliage in the winter, dependingon the genetics of it.

And, it gives me a littlebit more winter interest.

It also helps blockthe wind a little bit in the landscapes, capturesa little bit of snow.

And I love this leaf look in the wintertime when I don't havemuch to look at.

Plus it's greathabitat for animals.

– You know, and we actuallycan grow Gambel here.

It's a different form, but atleast it looks like Gambel.

And then you brought trulya broadleaf evergreen that we decided isnot your native, but it's amazing tosee it growing here.

– Yes, I actually clippedthis from my neighbor's house and I had originally thoughtthat it was Oregon grape holly, and we can grow the smallerform of Oregon grape holly, it's native out there.

But I found this.

This can grow out west.

It needs to be in aprotected location that's exactly where I found it.

But I watched myneighbor's plant for years, and it has neverdesiccated, it looks good all of the time, so,in just the right spot you can have some ofthese broadleaf evergreens and they'll do OK.

– Which is perfect.

So the combination is greatand as we always love to say to our guests, thankyou so much for coming, driving all theway in, and sharing what we would love tohave, but we live here.

– Absolutely mypleasure, thank you.

– Thanks Amy.

You know we love thatburst of color we get in the springtime from ourplants, but it's nice to know these plants can alsodeliver color and texture during the dull winter months.

Thanks so much to Amyfor sticking around and talking to us again.

Alrighty, let's takea few minutes now to answer our viewer emails.

We'd love to hear from you.

Perhaps you can share apicture or two with us, send us an email to byf@unl.


Our first questioncomes from Omaha.

And we've actually talked aboutthis a bit in past seasons and maybe even thisyear, and that is that some bulbs are coming up.

In this case it's alittle better than that or maybe worse thanthat in their minds because what they haveis they have snowdrops already in flower.

The email was actuallydated January 23rd, so, looking back in the record book, at least for our snowdrops oncampus, that is pretty early.

We have them blooming Februaryfourth, not January 23rd.

And of course, theirquestion is what happens now? Well obviously it'stoo late to do anything other than enjoy it.

If there is snowin the forecast, snow could help insulate.

You may see,certainly a little bit less vigorous plant next yearfrom that bulb depending on how the snow coverlasts and depending on how much freezingoccurs of the foliage.

But for heaven's sakes,don't cut that foliage back once that snow coverdiminishes in the spring.

So just enjoy it, that'sreally all you can do when nature throwssort of a whammy at us in terms of the season.

We have a viewer down inthe Auburn area that has some serious tree damage.

And she's wonderingwhether this in fact, could be a porcupine, isthis deer, is this squirrels? What exactly is going on here? We've sent this off to ourcritter creature Dennis Ferraro for an answer, and wewill actually post this both on our websiteand to Facebook.

But the chances of this being a rabbit are slim and none, a squirrel, slimmer andnoner, because, of course, the squirrels are not goingto do that amount of damage on the trunk ofa tree that high.

Could be porcupines althoughwe're not really seeing too many of them in thesoutheast part of the state or in that corner, couldvery well be deer damage.

The unfortunate thing of course,is that amount of stripping and bark damageprobably means an end to a successful life forthat particular tree.

We have a viewer outin the Lexington area that had ornamentalgrasses in their landscape, and waited until about now tocut them back, and in so doing discovered what lookslike a lot of damage around the crown of the plant.

And they're seeing placeswhere something has sort of burrowed throughor has run through or has used thosegrasses as shelter.

Their question is now howto get rid of the critter because first off, they'dhave to know what it is and then what to do aboutit, but more importantly can they, in the spring,dig those grasses up, divide them, and then reset them and hope to have some success.

The answer is a kind ofa guarded yes on that.

And what they willwant to do is first off take as big a clump ofthe root mass as possible and then tease apart thosegrasses in the locations where it appears as thoughthe damage has been done.

Take a good look and makesure that if it was a creature they have not nipped off orchewed off all of those roots from below the crown of thatplant, and if they have not, go ahead and reset thoseplants making sure that you don't set them at a depthany lower than they were previously or any higher.

Backfill with good soilfrom the surrounding area, don't use any ofthat amended stuff, give them a good drink andhope that maybe next year you won't have that sameissue with the damage to it.

But I would probablywait at this point even though we don't havemuch frost in the ground in a lot of areas, I'dwait until we're a bit later in the season todo that just in case our weather is reallystrange going into spring.

We've got one morefeature this season of Lifestyle Gardening.

Earlier in the programwe helped you with tips on pruning some ofyour woody ornamentals, and right now we'dlike to turn our focus to pruning your fruit trees.

The right cuts at theright time of year will help your fruittrees be more productive during the harvesttime of the year.

(mid tempo music) You know, even thoughwe're in mid February and we tell you to prune yourtrees when they're dormant, for fruit trees,it is too early.

We wanna really hit thatwindow for pruning fruit trees right before they breakdormancy because that helps avoid damage, potentiallyto either the tree itself or to the fruiting spurs.

The interesting thingabout our little orchard here in the Backyard Farmergarden is these trees are not very old, they'veonly been in the ground about two years, theyhave grown exponentially with one exceptionand that would be our poor sad little peach tree.

But we also have not done agreat job of pruning them.

And I say that on purposebecause one of the things we wanna be able to dois tell you how to not do what we have either done wrong, or we should bedoing differently.

So these are all apple trees, and then we have our Nectaplum.

The Nectaplum is ahybrid, and it's a cross, so it is very, very vigorous, and is showing a lot of growth.

Last year our season producedreally exponential growth in some of our fruit trees.

Long whippy sorts of growth and these are the kindsof things that we're going to want to control if we arereally after a good fruit crop.

Apple trees do whatwe call doubling.

And you can see thatthey throw two shoots or two branches from avery narrow connection.

They also tend to branch with maybe not verygood connections.

What we're going to lookat this year and accomplish as we get closer tothe break of dormancy, is opening the structure up.

We'll make good pruning cuts.

We will essentially be ableto throw a bushel basket through the interiorof these trees without hitting a branch.

We'll do some reductionon the height.

We'll take care of anythingthat is pointing back into the center of the tree.

And then we will hopethat that will help produce a goodfruiting crop for us.

We do a different kindof pruning on peaches.

And we do a different kindof pruning on our Nectaplum.

You'll be able tosee on the Nectaplum some of the gummosis,as it's called, which was a result of doingsome pruning cuts last year.

That is not necessarilya terrible thing for plants in the peach, theplum, the apricot family but you do have toalso look and make sure that you don't have someborer damage going on.

You can see in all ofthese apple trees however, and in the Nectaplum,a lot of the doubling.

And too much stuff up in thetop, and that is going to mean we don't have goodair circulation, we don't have enough light,we have a lot of foliage and not much fruit.

The Nectaplum actuallyproduced a double leader in it, and they're actuallycompeting leaders.

Realistically this is asmall, short lived tree.

We are not going to correctthat double leader at this time, but we're gonna makesure that we keep that as healthy as we possiblycan and hold on to that tree.

The pruning dose on fruittrees to be able to get them to actually fruit makesthem really not look like fruit trees, like ornamentaltrees in the landscape.

They look pretty weird.

So since we use this forteaching for our students and our master gardeners,you may not see perfect pruning here,but we also will send you to some great linksso you can get started on pruning your own fruittrees in your own orchard and do it correctly atthe right time of year to be able to produce the amountof fruit that you're after.

Getting the right pruningdone at the right time will make a world of difference in your tree's healthand productivity.

Cleaning up damagedor broken limbs is always the first placeto start when pruning.

After you've donethat, a bit of thinning will help treeswith air circulation and cut down on overproduction.

That's all the time we have for LifestyleGardening this year.

We've had a wonderfultime bringing you tips and interviewsagain this season, and you can still follow us onFacebook, YouTube and Twitter as well as all get ready forthe upcoming growing season.

Don't forget, Backyard Farmeris right around the corner as we start another year ofgardening advice in April.

So good afternoon, goodgardening, thanks for watching, and we'll see you all nextwinter on Lifestyle Gardening.

(mid tempo music).

Source: Youtube